2015-02-09 Hue to Hoi An – Feb 9

After an 8 AM departure from the hotel in rainy cool weather, we went to the Citadel, a 1 X 1 mile square fortification along the perfume river (that does NOT smell of perfume). It has two moats with high walls and ornate entry gates which served as the Royal palace of the Nguyen Dynasty of Kings of Vietnam from 1802 through 1945. There were 13 kings, the last one Bao Dai died in exile in France, without children only a few years ago.
It consisted in its glory days of a ceremonial palace a residential and working palaces for the king as well as numerous buildings – library, Queen’s residence, Queen Mother residence, concubine, eunuch etc buildings. The court could travel to the other key cities by elephant – 9 days to Hanoi and 13 days to Saigon. Unfortunately, due to all the wars there has been an almost total destruction of many of the buildings. However, as funds are raised, a total reconstruction is in progress, albeit slow and we were able to see some of the latest reconstructions as well as where they were working on continuing the program.
After an extensive walk around the citadel, we then went to the tomb / mausoleum of the 12th Ruler of the Nguyen Dynasty – Khái Dįnh – it’s amazing opulence. 125+ steps needed to be climbed from the street to reach the burial chamber. Although no-one really knows where the ossuary of the king really lies as the workers (prisoners) who carried the king to his final resting place were blindfolded, set into a maze and placed the ossuary, exited the labyrinth through different passages and were immediately executed, much like occurred in the burial of the Pharos of Egypt.
One ascends the first flight to a spectacular canopied structure of cement surrounded by statues of mandarins and attendants to serve in the afterlife. These are similar to those found in Xian , China.
The stairs continued to the main chamber which consisted of two altars on either side or the raised throne. Mosaic motifs were found all over each wall surface with ceramics from Japan. A truly spectacular site.
We then had a Vietnamese lunch and started the 3 1/2 hour track by coach to Da Nang and Hoi An.
There is a 7 km tunnel between Hue and Da Nang provinces under the mountain. This area was the original home of the Champa people who were the main settlers of Da Nang, and came from India ruling the area from 192 to 1822.
Next, to Danang with the famous (during the Vietnam war) China Beach (now called Da Nang Beach) landing place for French and Vietnam wars. Although vestiges of the war with the aircraft hangers and nissen huts exist, the area is much more noted for its Hilton, Marriott etc resorts that line the gorgeous beaches.
Finally to Hoi An where we had dinner and is a spectacular resort nestled between a river and the sea. We will explore the area on bicycles and on foot tomorrow.
For fear of loosing what is written, I will post this the the photos,