After a very early breakfast we set put at 7 AM to the Kú Chi or Cú Chi tunnels – an immense network of underground tunnels in the Cú Chi district near Saigon (www.diadaocuchi.com.vn). Saigon is located 90 Km from the sea on the Saigon river. As we departed we saw all the people coming into Saigon to work with thousands of motorcycles. The 4 lane road was divided with 2 lanes for cars and 2 for motorcycles. Traffic is horrendous as there is poor surface public transport and no subway / underground system.
The 250+ Kilometers of tunnels were the hiding, communications, Supply routes and living quarters for the Communist Viet Cong (VC) groups during the Viet Nam war.
In 1948 – the original bunkers were built to fight the French who eventually left in 1956. These initial defenses were greatly expanded between 1957 and 1975 to the Saigon River particularly during the Vietnam war.
The tunnels were built on 3 levels or stories, with the first level having a large area for market, hospital, education, cooking etc some had vaulted ceilings to scatter the force of the bombs. The Second level which was about 45 cms high and the Bottom level 25-30 cms high were used in emergencies during bombing raids. The tunnels were built in the place they were because the Soil formation allows for hand digging and then they would not collapse, they were very Patriotic people and they were near Saigon to fight and Cambodia to flee. One of the big issues from the hand digging with a short hoe and small basket, was where to put the clay and mud that was removed. So they decided to put that Soil from tunnels in Bomb craters, build up rivers, cover paddy fields so it would not make hills and then used by their enemy as evidence of where to conduct bombing raids. What they did use were shafts built by termites as breathing shafts as they appeared on the surface completely natural. 16,000 people lived in these tunnels and bunkers before and during the early part of the Vietnam war and only 4,000 survived after. Some were Killed by bombs but most were killed by malaria and other diseases as supplies were limited.
Another interesting feature was Cooking over a wood fire without showing the smoke. Here a lateral shaft was built for the smoke so it appeared as if the leaves on the surface some 20 yards away from the kitchen were smoldering. All over the place there were secret trap doors, some were used as openings for entering the tunnel system, others were different types of booby traps were the soldier walking along would fall into a hole filled with spikes – various types were used all horrendous and had the effect of hurting but not killing the soldiers who would then go home and talk about how gruesome it was, thus hopefully leading to a stop in hostilities.
During the absolutely fascinating walk through the jungle – a living museum of sorts – we saw the bunkers, figures of the VC, and living, eating etc quarters. One of the clever but simple deceptions they made were shoes built in reverse. The normal shape of the shoe was built in reverse, so the toes were where the heal would normally be and vice versa. This simple disguise showed footsteps as if they were going in the opposite direction from which the person was actually walking on the surface. This would lead the enemy to follow them in the wrong direction. We saw them making these shoes.
At one point those that wanted could walk in these tunnels. A guide went in with a flashlight, but otherwise it was pitch black. You either crouched or many walked on hands and knees as the tunnels were very small. A warning about claustrophobia, etc kept many of the group on the surface. A few went the full 100 meters, others went 20 meters to an exit and still a few went 10 meters and then could exit. This is an absolute must to see if ever in Saigon, despite it taking a couple of hours each way and it is wise to arrive early as the crowds arrive and it gets very congested. As we left there were probably 50 coaches in the parking lot as opposed to none when we arrived. All were raving about the adventure. Enjoy the pictures in the separate posting
We then took the 2 hour ride back in the coach to Saigon and were treated to a Western Lunch – Hawaiian Pizza!
Next, to our last stop of the day – the American Vietnam War Museum (actually called The War Remnants Museum or Báo Tàng Chú’ng Tích Chê’n Tranh). It is a truly depressing tribute to the brutalities of war. A lot of military hardware was present including aircraft and tanks plus personal hand weapons, but the pictures brought back so many memories of the war. Me Lai massacre was graphically displayed, the famous picture of the naked girl who was napalmed (she married the photographer and is living in Toronto), all the Agent Orange devastation for generations etc. a brilliant compilation of news photographers pictures from around the world. There was a quiet sense of reverence with the hundreds who were visiting (Asians and Westerners).
Tonight back to our usual Vietnamese dinner of 7 to 9 courses, including probably the usual noodles and sticky rice, fish, meat and vegetables with fruit for desert. We have on at least two occasions and perhaps more, eaten ostrich which we all have really enjoyed. We do wonder at times whether we are actually eating Dog or Rat, but carefully focus on it being beef!
The New Year Celebrations are starting in full swing as we are only a few days off and it is a very major holiday.
Tomorrow we are off to the Mekong Delta for a river cruise.
As usual LUC regaled us with fascinating stories:-
> Home altars should have 5 fruits from the following –
Banana, Pomelo, Apple, Grape, Papaya or sugar cane, Orange or dragon fruit
> The 17th Parallel divided North and South Vietnam.
> The President of South Vietnam was supported by the USA as he was against the communists VC.
Roger & Anne Travels 