Sunday February 21 – Easter Island, (population about 6,000) called by the Natives Rapa Nui (“Large Island” in Rongo Rongo / Rapanui) was “discovered” in 1722 (Aprl 5) by the Dutch explorer Jacob Roggeveen on Easter Day and called Paash-eyland. It was annexed by Chile on September 9, 1888 being present the King Atamu Tekena and the Chilean Policarpo Toro negotiating for the bishop of Valparaiso. The locals were not entitled, however to Chilean passports until 1966. It was interesting that the treaty, written in Spanish indicated “Ceding of Dominion over the Island”, whereas the Rongo Rongo / Tahitian indicated that the lands were for “mao te hoa kona” – Friend of the land – and the deal was sealed with the hand over of a tuft of grass. The Chileans handed over a sack of money which was rejected by the King, saying “we are not selling these lands”.
The 64 Sq Mile (164 Sq Km) World Heritage Island located 2,300 miles West of Chile and 2,500 miles East of Tahiti in the Pacific Ocean is shaped like a right angle triangle with it’s (East / West) hypotenuse side (14 miles) to the South and the maximum width 7 miles North / South (16 X 17 X 24 Km). It was formed by three volcanos at each acute angle corner at opposite ends of the hypotenuse (roughly East / West) Pukalike and Ranu Kau springing up from the Ocean floor first and at a later date the third and largest Volcano Terevaka (height 1,969 feet or 600 meters) erupted and joined the other two “Island” volcanos into one larger island. The first inhabitants from the Polynesian under the “Ruler” Hoto-Matua, arrived (possibly from the Marquesa Islands) around 300-400 AD (or CE) on the Northern sandy beach of Anakena (most of the coast is rocky). Archaeological evidence shows three distinct periods of development – Early (700-850AD); Middle (1050-1680AD) and Late (After 1680 AD) with warfare and destruction of the iconic statues between the Early and Middle Periods, and many obsidian spear heads indicating an increase in warfare during the late period, between the 2 principal ethnic groups (Long ears & Short ears).
The statues for which Easter Island is famous are called Moai carved from the light porous volcanic rock – tuff – from the small fissure volcano Rano Rarko. There are many that remained uncared, while still some 40-50 are near the quarry and were like “being on display for potential buyers”!!! They are mounted mostly on Ahus (ceremonial stone platforms) that acted as burial chambers, particularly during the middle period. The 887 existing Moai are thought to represent the ancestors and were erected to guard against evil spirits in the residential areas of the inhabitants. Almost all face inland with their backs to the Ocean and are all around the island. Some are on the ground are yet to be stood up. The manner in which the ancients carved, moved and erected them is unclear. The average size is 4 meters (13 feet) high and weigh 13 tons, with the largest from the Middle Period being 32 feet (10 Meters) tall and weighing 82 tons (74,500Kg). It’s only city is the Capital Hanga Roa (Population 3,000) and Spanish plus Rapanui (a polenisian derived language) being the predominant spoken languages. Rapanui is part of the Eastern Polynesian family of languages which split into Rapanui and Central Polenysian languages. Central Polynesian is made up of Tahitic (Tahetian, Maori, Rarotongan) and Marquesic (Marquesans, Mangarevan and Hawaiian).
The ship was supposed to arrive at 4 PM for a slow drive by the southern side of the island leaving at 6 to continue the journey to Tahiti. However, the Captain announced that due to a passenger being very ill, he had increased the speed from the usual 20 Knots to 27+ knots so as to get the patient to medical facilities on Easter Island. He was not sure what, if any, of the island we were to see. When the time came, we arrived at 2 PM and went straight to the main town Hanga Roa on the Western coast. Fortunately, the ship Costa Luminosa had it’s life boats (Tenders) in the water as it was tendering it’s passengers ashore. One of these tenders came to the rescue of the patient on Queen Mary 2, tied up along side our ship, allowing the patient to be transferred, with one of the medical staff, and thus to shore. We all hope that he / she will be OK and get the necessary treatment in time. For us, that remained on the ship we were able to enjoy a lot more of the island than planned as we had to stay in the area until the medical staff was able to return to the ship. So we slowly went the full length of the 24 Km southern side allowing us on the Port side full view of the island, then did a pirouette in the bay near the Tongariki group of Moai before turning back and thus permitting full viewing to those on the Starboard side. Eventually we returned to Hanga Roa and a local fishing / pleasure vessel brought the medical personnel back to the ship permitting us to set sail westward towards Tahiti just before 7PM. The weather was glorious, the colour of the sea Emerald and the excitement of being and seeing Easter Island was an unforgettable experience. One interesting feature was the local (Malaveri) Airport with its runway starting at the sea edge by the Ana Kai Tangala Moai and rising then lowering to the sea near Vinapu Moai and walking distance to the town Hanga Roa. Another observation was the ruggedness of the coastline and the stratification of the volcano ocean sides that have eroded over time forming steep cliffs. A memorable day.
Roger & Anne Travels 