Sunday Arpil 10, 2106 – It is nice to have 2 days at sea to recharge from the hectic schedule of 5 ports in 6 days. So we took it easy, completing some “housecleaning” (putting purchases in suitcases, organising papers, laundry etc) and some rest. Roger had developed a sinus and eye infections, so Tachy accompanied me visiting the medical office for antibiotics etc, and am getting back to full health each day. Diana had a bit of migraine as we have been pushing it hard, early mornings, busy days, lots to see which came to affect us all, but on this day is was the siblings, the cousinsheld on for a couple of days. We did go to the port lecture on Cochin, India by Graham Howell which we will visit on the 14th. Also Don Wales, the Grandson of Sir Malcom Campbell and Nephew of Donald Campbell, spoke on the family history and their drive to beat both land and water speed records. He spoke this time on his grandfather Sir Malcom who from a young age was always pushing to go faster and indeed broke the Land speed record 9 times and the water speed record 4 times, before dying of old age. He had two children, a boy Donald who also broke records and will be the subject of a future talk and a girl, who is the mother of the speaker Don Wales, who in and of himself (now the 3rd generation) has also broken records, which he will talk about in the coming days. A very interesting story of the family. The other lecture which was also very interesting and a great amusing speaker was Airline Captain David Henderson, who spoke of his 40+ years flying all different types or airplanes, from the “Chipmunk” trainer (that I used to fly until my eyes went bad) through fighters to jumbo jets. He focussed on landing at Hong Kong’s old airport, now the cruise terminal where we were a few days ago. It is amazing that not more ‘planes suffered catastrophies given the flight path! An early evening and dinner in the cabin. Diana and Nelson did go down for dinner and then to the Captain’s cocktail party where he announced that there were 1400 people who changed over (terminated / started their voyage) in Shanghai, including himself. The top 4 nationalities on board are now Australian, English, South African and USA/Canada.
Monday April 11, 2016 – Another day at sea and another day of rest, catching up with photo organization and the blog. However we did go to Graham Howell’s port lecture on Dubai – sounds like a fascinating 2 days, and to the Airline Captain David Henderson talking about Air Traffic Control and the history of how it has developed over the years into the sophisticated and critical job it it today. Thousands of ‘planes in the air at any one time all having to get from A to B within air corridors with little space between. Another speaker, good but not dynamic, was Dr. Chris Crowe (astrophysicist) who works with Dr. Stephen Hawkings at Cambridge, spoke about “life in Space” and all the aspects of food, hygiene, muscle deterioration and experiments. Again dinner in the cabin, but Nelson went to the show – a pickpocket / magician Claudio de Negri who performed some amazing stunts even taking the shirt off a volunteer from the audience as well as watches, stuff in pockets etc.
Tuesday April 12, 2016 – We moored, Port to dock in the large Jaya Container area of the Port of Colombo in Sri Lanka, which used to be Celyon. Soon after arrival the local merchants set up their tables and a host of interesting items were there for sale. We obliged!!! The container port is a short taxi ride into the local town, but some 40 minutes coach ride to the Mall and Handicraft market. No Shuttle buses are permitted due to the local transport (Taxi’s & Tuk-Tuk’s = three wheel rickshaws driven by a motorcycle) having convinced the government that it would affect the economy, so the ship provided a “free Shopping Tour” taking people back and forth from the shopping areas. Apparently the same will happen in Cochin India, our next port. Anyway we were booked on an 11 hour tour “The Best of Sri Lanka” which goes to Kandy (3 1/2 hours drive) and a prior glorious capital city of Ceylon. However we got a notice that the ship had to cancel the tour due to repairs being performed at some of the key sites in Kandy (following a recent lightning and rain storm) and that tomorrow being the start of Sri Lankan New Year celebrations, the roads will be particularly busy. Prior to this and following the Port Lecture, Tachy decided that she would prefer going to the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, the three others preferred to stay local and see Colombo. So Tachy set off early and we booked the only tour that was available – A 5 hour afternoon tour of the town. Nelson was not feeling well (stomach), so stayed on the ship. Diana and Roger thought they might get a taxi into town and look around in the morning, but we decided first to look around the local temporary shops. As soon as we stepped outside and started looking at the shops in the 42C (108F) temp with 95% humidity (with heat Index = 50C / 122F), we soon decided that we would do a little shopping at the temporary market, then head back into the cool ship. Lots of fun things to buy and see. One older English Lady commented to me as I had picked something up and was looking at it – “First you buy, then you wonder why”. So true, what today looks amazing in the location, tomorrow at home may be something you wonder why I ever thought of buying that. Anyway, we enjoyed shopping (including extra suitcases) and returned to the ship for lots of water, lemonade and cool air. Nelson was feeling a bit better so after a quick sandwich, we went off on the tour.
The Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka is a pear or teardrop shaped island in the Indian Ocean, 18 miles off the southwestern tip of India. It covers 25,332 Sq Miles (65,610 Sq Km) and is about the size of Tasmania or a little smaller than Ireland. The highest peak Piduruthalagala is 8,281 feet (2,524 Meters). Above sea level and 70% of the 22 Million population are Buddhists in the 7,000 Sq Mile country containing 22 provinces. It is known for it’s tea (introduced in 1872 by James Taylor) and is the fourth largest world producer after China, India and Kenya as well as minerals and spices. Prime Minister – Sirimavo Bandaranaike became the first female in the world to hold that post in 1960. The film “Bridge over the River Kwai” (1957) starring Alec Guiness and William Holden was filmed in Sri Lanka. Recorded history dates back to about 500 BC when people from Northern India settled on the Island, known even today as Sinhalese, with the first Capital Anuradhapura being settled in the 4th Century BC. It remained as the capital and home of Buddhism until the Dravidian group of languages, specifically Tamil invasion from Southern India. The capital of the Sinhala kingdom moved from Polonnaruwa to Kotte (near Colombo) and Kandy, which as previously stated, we were supposed to visit, but was cancelled by Cunard. Over the centuries the island has been under European domination with the colonial powers of Portugal from 1505 to 1660, then the Dutch took over until the British starting in 1796, and eventually took over as rulers in 1802 until independence on February 4th, 1948. Much of the country still operates under the British system, driving on the Left hand side, Parliament and similar British laws and we saw a lot of colonial buildings that could easily be in London. The name change from Ceylon to Sri Lanka took place in 1972 which was a traditional name of the island. Civil war, killing some 70,000 people between the Sinhalese and Tamils from then 1980’s, with the latter demanding the country be split into two with them taking the North, culminating in final peace in May 2009. Because of it’s location at the tip of India and on the trading routes between Europe and the Far East, it developed and still is an important stop on the trade routes and indeed trade is critical to the economy. The Sinhala New Year is tomorrow and lasts 2 days with major festivities. An interesting observation that the guide also mentioned was that the Sinhala language has 54 letters.
Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, 56 Miles North East of Colombo (3 1/2 hour drive) started with 7 Elephants in 1975 and now has about 100. Tachy really enjoyed, but at first concerned when these great big animals pass right by you, unrestrained and only a couple of feet away. Over time she got so into the whole experience that she was able to stand underneath one whose size was such that it’s mouth was above her head. Then she was able to feed, yes actually place bits of fruit, like watermelon into it’s mouth and feel the soft tongue and hard leathery skin. Feeding the babies was also an amazing experience with bottles that had long teets, placed into their mouth for them to suck on. Playful jousting occurred as one seemed to be hungrier than the others and barged another out of the way. The vanquished baby elephant (1-2 year olds) then returned and pinned the former victor’s snout against the metal bars in one corner, while grabbing the milk. It sounds like a truly amazing experience and she was thrilled to have gone, making friends with some of the other travellers.
Meanwhile Diana and her 2 husbands (an inside joke that started when Tachy went off to be with her mother as we crossed the Pacific and Diana with Nelson and Roger would go about the ship for dinner and photos etc. Thus she was the lady with two husbands) took off on the tour. Mohalan the guide took us around Colombo (population 2.5 Million) and gave us some history and statistics as we passed the beaches, modern as well as colonial buildings, a seated sculpture of Queen Victoria to commemorate her diamond jubilee and gorgeous fountains around roundabouts. As we departed the port we passed a very interestingly shaped Stupa or Buddhist meditation temple shaped somewhat like a rocket about to take off. It has three legs, under which the coach drove, a large circular cylindrical body and a long antenna like structure pointing towards space. Our first stop after driving through the town and some of it’s 17 sectors was the Laksala National Museum. Before entering we were enraptured by the snake charmer in the gardens with three Cobras raising their heads from circular baskets and a monkey playing amongst the cobra. Another man, playing with a 12 foot python snake seemed happy to use it as a scarf and place it on any willing customers (for a donation). The museum is housed in a splendid 19th century colonial building made of 1 1/2 meter (5 feet) thick mud walls and houses some fascinating antiques and artefacts of Sri Lankan history. These include such things as regalia of the Kings of Kandy, traditional masks, wood and ivory carvings, an amazing group of incised stone stelae and thousands of palm leaf manuscripts. There was also an exhibit of agriculture, a vital part of the history and indeed the present Sri Lanka economy. Our next stop was Independence Square – consisting of a statue of the first Prime Minister and a large raised open hall with some 50 columns, surrounded by some 100 stone lions guarding the structure. We walked up the stairs and around the hall, where the independence from Britain document was signed on April 4th 1948 taking pictures and admiring the amazing architectur and skill of the craftspeople who dedicated so much of their lives and attention to creating it’s detail.
Everyone back on the coach for our next stop – The Buddhist temple of Asokarama with it’s 500 year old tree guarding the outer buildings with niches of Buddha. Crossing through an opening in the wall which was being held or adorned with some 30 elephant sculptures, we entered the temple innner precinct. The inside of the temple was very different from most with their elaborately carved, gold leaf style. This one rather, going for the gigantic. The usable space for worshippers was relatively small, but the figures were enormous. After shoe removal, we entered the outer chamber where there were 35 foot high attendants in the corners and elaborate “3-D” murals. The figures that went from floor to ceiling – must have been 40 foot high and led to three doorways. The central one for entry into the inner sancdom with 3 statues (Buddha in the Center). A person standing on the floor would come up to the toe of the Buddha. Elaborate carving abounded. From either the inner or outer rooms, one could travel around the back of the Buddha where an equally large reclining Buddha was found, together with many murals of the life of Buddha and a rear altar with many carvings. Gold and bright colours were everywhere and we were all amazed at the shear size and intricate decoration of the interior. Our next stop after passing many cricket pitches was not a planned stop on the itinerary, but rather one that the guide wanted us to see – A Hindu temple at the end of a small street with the most intricately carved exterior facade yet seen. Some 110 figures are carved in proportion on the 9 levels of the facade. Unfortunately, services were being held inside, so none of us were permitted to enter, despite pleading from the guide. So the inside remains a mystery, but if the outside is anything to go on, and a murky picture I was able to snap through the open door, it must be spectacular. It was now time to go to one of the 5 star hotels (Galadari) for refreshments and a bit of retail therapy. We found this to be a custom both here as well as India, that water, juices, soft drinks and biscuits are offered to the tourists. In this case we were in a hotel with it’s lobby shops and the cool air, cold drinks and pristine cleanliness were a welcome sight. The hotel is next door to the old British colonial Parliament building with its Corinthian columns and portico, that could easily be any stately building in England, and a roundabout with lions (looking somewhat like Chinese winged Fu Dogs, guarding the fountain in the Center.
We returned to the ship, refreshed and thoroughly enjoyed the day in the modern and colonial city with local flare. We were surprised that Tachy had not returned, but eventually found that she had been in the medical office for a couple of hours waiting to see the doctor due to a leg tendon / muscle issue that had arisen during the elephant trip. This resulted in her having to remain with her leg up for a couple of days, missing the tour in India. So this day, it was the Cousin’s day to have medical issues, with Nelson in the morning and Tachy in the afternoon! Fortunately, all four of us have enjoyed good health throughout the the trip and hope it will continue through the end. We left late (about 10PM) from the port so we did sneak out for a final after dark visit, of the shops by the quay. It seemed strange to be on land after dark, which has only happened once (Sydney) in the past 3 months.
Wednesday April 13, 2016 – At sea en route to Cochin, India. A quiet day at sea with lectures by the amusing airline Captain David Henderson, this time talking about his experiences of medical emergencies in the air. As he said, his batting average of the extremes was not too great – 3 deaths and 1 birth while in flight. The birth was an Indian Lady dressed in a Saree travelling to London and fortunately there was a retired midwife on board who helped in the birthing. We were albeit morbidly amused, of a story of a family whose loved one died before the flight and after ascertaining the cost of repatriation in a coffin from a mortician of £7,000, opted for a £29.95 flight on Easy Jet for the deceased. The individual was checked in, in a wheel chair, given a boarding pass, and only stopped at security, when one of the operators touched the cold body!!! Most of his stories though were of a lighter note and involved more routine medical issues on flights. Next was the ever fascinating Don Wales (Campbell speed record holder family) talking about his uncle Donald Campbell and his 7 water and 1 land speed records,, being the only person in history to break both in the same year, before being killed during a water speed record attempt in the UK Lake District. Commodore Rupert Wallace gave a first hand account of what it was like to be a young cadet in the Signals Corp on the HMS Invincible in the Falkland War. Being privy to all the communications he was well aware of Capt. Mike Barrow and his near destruction, watching the Exocet from the Argentine military that hit his ship. He was the second speaker that I have had a chance to talk to during the voyage who was involved in the Falkland war and both had observed the Exocet headed towards Mike’s ship. As I was chatting to him, a couple of other naval men approached and joined in the conversation, both of whom had also fought in the Falkland war. An interesting fact we learned was that whereas a statute mile was decreed by an Act of Parliament during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I as being 5,280 feet, a nautical mile is defined as 1 minute (1/69 th of a degree) of Latitude. However this means that at the Equator it is 6,046 feet and due to the shape of the Earth it is 6,108 feet at the Poles. Thus a mean value of 6,077 feet (1852 Meters) is used for a nautical mile. Enough rambling for the days, tomorrow Cochin (Kochi), India.
Roger & Anne Travels 