Monday April 18, 2016 – Arrived Dubai UAE (population 2MM) – As we sailed through the the narrow entrance to the large Cruise harbour (there are 3 ports and 2 airports in Dubai) we were greeted, albeit a little foggy with this tall spire that rises from the re-claimed desert that is the world’s tallest building – The Burj (Tower) Khalifa (828 meters / 2,717 Feet – New WTC in NY for comparison is 1,776 feet). We moored, starboard to dock and soon were into the ultra modern terminal to the awaiting coaches, ready to explore this immaculate modern city, the financial capital of the United Arab Emirates (UAE). The UAE was formed on December 2, 1971 based on the ideas of the Emirs (Ruler / King) of Dubai and Abu Dhabi, in which 7 different Emirates (Kingdoms) joined together as a Federation. The 7 rulers still manage the affairs of the country as the supreme council, with the Emir of Abu Dhabi (the richest of the Emirates) as the supreme leader. They appoint the Prime Minister and cabinet. Abu Dhabi is the Capital and the largest in area, but Dubai, the second largest in area has over a million more people. The other Emirates (other than the 2 mentioned) are – Ajman, Fujairah, Ras al Khaimah, Sharjah and Umm al Qaiwain. The present Emir of Dubai is Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. Dubai dates back thousands of years as small Bedouin communities and was a Port of call in trade between Mesopotamia and the Indus Valley. Pearl diving was a mainstay of the economy in the 18th century until the invention by the Japanese of the cultured pearl. By the mid 1800’s fishing, dhow (boat) building and pearls were the keys to the economy and trade was always a key part to the success, with the still reigning Maktoum family taking the rulership role after the break (1840) with Abu Dhabi. Truces for protection were signed with Britain in return for naval and military presence and bases. This continued until 1969 and over the subsequent 2 years the agreements amongst the 7 Emirs established so UAE was formed in 1971. Since then, with the boom of oil from the area, the rulers have wisely invested in their Emirates to prepare for a time when oil was no longer the mainstay of the economic engine.
Emirates Airlines has grown from 2 to over 200 ‘planes with one taking off from Dubai every 5 minutes. Architects have enjoyed creativity with new skyscrapers of every size and shape being built in the last 40 years. If it’s bigger, better, flashier you want, Dubai is the place to be. The tallest building in the world, the tallest Hotel in the world (Mariott at 388 Meters / 1,273 feet), the Palm – a series of man made islands for residential purposes, built like a palm and visible from space are just a few of the structures it boasts. As it is often said, you either love or hate this “Adult Disneyland” type place. Personally I think we all loved it and can’t wait to return and see more. The boasting of size (like the US State of Texas) is done here with sophistication. It is not just Gold for the sake of gold being flaunted and looking way over the top. The biggest shopping mall – Dubai Mall – in the world, not only has thousands of shops, it also has a vast aquarium and an Olympic size Ice Hockey rink. Indeed there are so many shopping malls that the city of Dubai gets the nickname “Do Buy”!! 200+ Mosques in this predominantly Muslim country (other religions are permitted) are, per the ruler’s instructions to be located such that a person does not have to walk more than 10 minutes or 1/2 Kilometer without finding a Mosque to pray in. Another building has a climate controlled snow skiing piste for avid skiers (in the desert). If you can dream it up, Dubai probably has it. Bus stops are air conditioned, Subway (Metro opened 09/09/09 at 09:09AM) stations look like mini airport terminals. Colourful greenery – plants, flowers, trees are everywhere, all of which have to be irrigated, as do the 11 golf courses. A hotel shaped like a sail with a helipad on the roof, another building shaped like a ball poin pen yet another looking like the DNA double helix, called the “infinity” building are all present. Despite all this modernity, and cleanliness with all fountains, flowers and everywhere you look – immaculate presentation pervades the air and ambiance of the well run country. Different Emirates are stricter or more lax in their interpretation of Islamic Law. Dubai is very Westernized and tolerant, whereas other parts of the UAE are much stricter. Alcoholic beverages are available in all hotels, as tourism is being promoted, very successfully. Waitrose Supermarket even has a room called “The Pork Room” only for Non-Muslims. The older part of the city still has it’s traditional Souks (markets) for spices, gold etc in buildings that still have columns (like open chimneys) that go into the rooms permitting free air exchange – an early air conditioning needed in this 45-50C (113-122F) average summer temperature with 15 days of rainfall a year. Dhow’s and other flat bottom boats move a lot of the trade from the ports to the shops and ferry people across the Dubai Creek (Khor Dubai) – a seawater inlet that has been used by traders for millennia and divides the old city into two parts. I throw out all these bits and pieces by way of attempting to have the reader experience the onslought of sensory perceptions we obtained while visiting this city for 2 days.
Nelson and Diana booked a tour of the city, which we booked on the second day, whereas they decided to have free time on their own the second day, going to experience the Dubai Mall. Tachy and Roger booked a different tour on the first day, which was not offered on the second day. This confusion, basically means that for the most part we all saw the same thing on different days, with each doing something different in addition. So Tachy and Roger headed out on the coach with a small group, dressed reasonably elegantly for day tourism – long sleeved shirts and trousers etc. The reason for this is that after the usual drive through the city with commentary by our excellent Hungarian guide Gabor (which by chance we had both days) we headed to the Burj Al Arab (321 Meters / 1,053. feet high), the iconic Hotel Tower shaped like a sail that is the symbol of Dubai. A Rolls Royce parked next to a camel (statue) greeted us at the entrance just after passing the world’s largest water park before we went to the man-made island on which it is based. The entrance lobby is spectacular with some 50+ spouts of water on a simulated staircase playing in the exquisite fountain on either side of which were the up and down escalators that took us to the main lobby. The decor of the shops and restaurants was elegant Arabian with still other fountains and the central lobby area going right up to the roof with the stays holding the sail one one side of the triangular shaped interior. The other two sides were the suites. We took the lift to the top floor on which there was a spectacular restaurant facing the ocean and a conference / party room facing the city and just below the famed helipad. It was in this room that we were to have breakfast! Let me digress to refresh one’s memory that the helipad is virtually never used as it is very difficult to land a helicopter there due to the wind currents. However Roger Federer (the superb tennis player) and Tiger Woods (golfer) at the height of his fame, both played their respective sports on the helipad. As we entered the room to three round tables, we were amazed by the spectacular view of the city, beaches and indeed The Palm. I will discuss this Palm “Wonder of the World” later. After taking our seats we were greeted to white glove service by the waiters who served us cream, then 3 types of jam and a scone. We also enjoyed different sandwiches and cakes / tarts etc with tea, coffee and water. We all were taken particularly with the mini strawberry tarts which boasted gold leaf on the strawberries. The food was superb, the service perfection and the view spectacular. Much as we wanted to remain up there all day, alas it was time to return to Earth, but not before using the facilities which were over the top gorgeous and all who used them, took photographs to show the handiwork that went into the marble conveniences. Our next stop after more and more photographs, was to the Marina section where we boarded a catemeran boat which required that we all remove our shoes prior to entering the immaculate Center of the boat. The 1 hour + cruise took us to visit the ins and outs of the various fronds of the Palm as well as over to the Burj Al Arab from the water side for more pictures and appreciation of the work that went into it’s construction. This “Palm” for those unfamiliar, is a man-made island group that looks like a Palm from the air, built between 2002 and 2009 and consists of a central “trunk” – bridge to mainland and going the full length of the Palm tree out to sea. This 7 Km long reclaimed land (by moving desert sand) serves as the connecting arm between the lateral fronds. Several semi-circular strips of re-claimed land (sand) are partially built with private houses, condos, hotels etc. Each of these lateral arms are 6 Kilometers long and the last outside ring forming roughly 340 degree circle surrounding the Palm structure (open towards the shore) measures at least 8 Kilometers. Homes on the Palm fronds start at US$3 Million and go up from there, however there are many apartment buildings starting about US$500K interspersed amongst Luxurious hotels – Fairmont, Waldorf Astoria etc on the fronds. Although fascinating to see up close, one really needs to be in the air to appreciate it and we did get a view from the top of the Burj Al Arab. After returning to the shore, we were returned to the ship / quay, but we decided to take a taxi and head over to the Souk (Market), with another nice UK couple we had met on the coach. We did visit several gold shops (of the over 100) and some souvenir, pottery, clothing shops doing a little damage. However we had to rush back in another taxi to the ship to get prepared for the dinner.
This was no ordinary dinner, it was a true extravaganza, put on by Cunard for all of us doing the full world voyage. They very kindly invited us all to a full Black Tie cocktail reception, dinner and show at the Armani Hotel located in the Burj Khalif (tallest building in the world opened January 4, 2010). The fountains playing in the front and red carpet entry, gave us the immediate impression that this was to be a very special evening and the reality exceeded even our own expectations. The cocktail was held outside on a large patio with 295 of the 315 Around the World guests attending together with all the senior ship officers and the photography crew. The Captain, Deputy Captain and Entertainment Director greeted us in the receiving line. Being in a moderate Muslim country, wine and beer were served in the hotel, but if caught drinking in the street, it results in a severe penalty. Canapés were served while young svelt ladies performed belly dances on large (2 1/2 ft diameter) stone balls (with the QM2 world voyage logo) and they also danced amongst the gathered group. The rear of the building was all lit up with a light show and a very large acre sized fountain with dancing spouts (like Belaggio in Las Vegas) as a backdrop. The fountains, set to music and lights perform each 15 minutes a dazzling and spectacular show of dance and grace for us, the onlookers. A truly magical time. After an hour or so soaking up the magnificence of the surroundings in the now cooler evening, we were asked to enter the ballroom of the Armani Hotel (designed by Giorgio Armani) and find our assigned tables (No. 17) with place cards. As we took our seats the lights dimmed and the stage filled with a dance troupe that performed stories from ancient Egypt, with Osiris, Ra and amazing headdresses depicting deities of the pantheon as music and a screen the size of the stage depicted appropriate scenes to the dance show. Dinner consisted of lobster, filet mignion with vegetables and desert / pudding all washed down with nice red and white wine and accompanied by a trio with vocalist singing Western songs and music. Dinner speeches followed by the Captain and having all been served champagne, we toasted the Queen as she reaches her 90th Birthday. We were then treated to another show of Arabian dancers, belly dancers and others who ultimately brought up audience members to the stage to make fools of themselves, as often happens at these sort of functions. The captain was brought up, as was the entertainment director Paul O’Laughlin (who just rejoined the ship, having left in Barbados) to dance with one of the young maidens with a stick perched between their stomachs, while grating body arms and legs flailed. This was followed by walking sticks placed horizontal to the ground on top of their heads, once again with hips, arms and legs girating. A difficult feat to accomplish, but Capt. Wells did both admirably, much to the enjoyment of all. The band continued on for some hour or so afterwards for dancing, while the fountains played outside and the building was lit up with a spectacular light show. Eventually all returned to the ship after a memorable and magical evening. As we reviewed the day, not a bad time at all – breakfast at the top of the sail building, cruise through the Palm and a spectacular dinner in the tallest building in the world – we could get used to this!
Tuesday April 19, 2016 – After a short night, this morning’s tour departed at 7 AM and we’re happy to see the same guide Gabor, who had been with us the day before and done a terrific job. This time we drove to the Burj Al Arab (sail building) for a picture from the beach side, which vantage point we did not see the day before. Then a drive through the Jumeirah “ritzy” neighbourhood, noting the number of Mosques, as mentioned above 1/2 Kilometer away from one another. We did stop at the Jumeirah Mosque, which does permit entry to non Muslim visitors, but requires time and much red tape, so we were able to just take pictures. A beautiful place indeed from the outside. As we continued driving through the city past the Dubai Mall and Ski Dubai, we reached the old quarter where the city got its start and there were more traditional low rise houses. An interesting feature was seeing the air handling towers, permitting natural circulation of air which was widely in use before the advent of Air Conditioning. The temperature on both days was 30C to 35C (86-95F) during the day which was warm, but with 25% Relative Humidity, was less oppressive than prior ports of call. The stop in the old city was at the Museum Dubai, situated in the Old Al Faheidi Fort. Outside an old Dhow greets one to the oldest building in Dubai converted in 1979 (with further restoration in 1995) to the museum which houses archaological artefacts dating back 4000 years through the life of Bedoins and up to more modern history of the pearl divers and the latest years following the oil boom. A very interesting, albeit dark / dimly lit, museum, but does give the desired effect. From there we took a short boat ride on an abra – one of the 10 passenger flat bottom taxi boats that ferry people up and down the Dubai Creek, to the Souk (market). It was fascinating to see the movement of merchandise and people along the waterway and was slightly reminiscent of the Grand Canal in Venice. In addition to all the marine traffic it was fascinating to see the people on shore scurrying about their daily lives and the buildings of the old city along the canal. This souk, which we visited briefly yesterday is so large that we never saw the spice market, which was our first stop today. Amazing Arabian perfumes and spices were sold by weight out of large containers. Saffron by the (expensive) handful, Frankinsense, exotic spices, it was all there to be had at prices that were reasonable. We then wandered through the alleys of the Souk with its vibrant colours until we got to the gold Souk. Here gold in all shapes and sizes is sold from the 100 or so gold shops. From elaborate tiara, to pectorals, to diamond encrusted chains, it was all there to be had. We looked through the window at a nice tennis bracelet (thin gold with diamonds and saw that it could be had for a mere US$35,000, so of course be bought a dozen – NOT – we rapidly walked on!!!! We did find a magnet shop, adding to our collection of fridge magnets from each location for a couple of dollars, then went to the cafe for a coffee, with the locals. It was time to end out time in Dubai and so returned to the ship, which was waiting for us so as to be able to depart. As we boarded, we heard the captain announcing the Piracy drill in full swing for the benefit of those recently joining the ship, and as soon as we were safely back on board we headed out to Muscat, Oman where we arrive tomorrow morning. The ship waits for tour busses that are late, but not for passengers on their own that are late!!
As we settled into lunch and chatting about our respective mornings, we were informed of a Royal Navy adventure in the afternoon. Diana and Nelson had taken the shuttle to the Dubai Mall and told us all about the experience and we compared notes on the same tour taken over the two days. Eventually, great excitement at 4PM as a Royal Navy Sikorsky Sea King helicopter came along side buzzing up one side then the other and all around the ship for some 20 minutes, while we took videos and pictures of the helicopter in full demonstration mode. Again I believe this is to show the passengers that even though we are travelling in Pirate waters, help is close at hand and indeed, Owen McDermott – the Navy Liason officer and Royal Marines are still on board and will be until we are in the Mediterranean. So another exciting day comes to an end with dreams of what Oman will bring as we arrive in the morning.
Roger & Anne Travels 