Thursday April 28, 2016 – In Limassol (aka Lemesos), Cyprus shaped like a frying pan or guitar, visiting the southern part of the island that is Greek. It has a divided capital in Nicosia (aka Lefkosia) (part Greek, Part Turk) and the North of the island up through the neck of the guitar or pan handle which has been under Turkish occupation since 1974. We spent the day travelling around Limassol and along the Southern coast to Larnaka and then up to the small village of Lefkara noted for it’s Lace and silver filigree work.
Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean after Sicily and Sardinia, has 486 miles of coastline and a population of 810,000 of which 80% are Greek and 10% Turkish with the remainder predominantly either Armenian, Latin or Maronites. It is 60 Kilometers from Turkey, 600 from Greece, 90 Kilometers from Syria and 380 from Egypt. Although the written language is modern Greek, the spoken is an ancient Greek dialect only spoken here and on Rhodes and Kos. Most of the Greek population are Greek Orthodox Christians with the Turks mainly Muslim while the minorities are Christian / Catholic.
The history goes back many millennia, with certain Neolithic settlements being uncovered dating to the 7th Millenium BC, but by 2500BC the discovery of copper on the island made it a center for this metal in the world. There have been numerous occupiers of Cyprus given it’s resources and location at the Eastern end of the Mediterranean. The Egptians, then around 800 BC Greeks and Phonetians (from Lebanon) colonised Cyprus, then Alexander the Great took over and it became part of the Roman Empire managed as part of Sicily, then it was ruled from Constantinople, was attacked by Arabs, remained under Byzantium and was the last stop for the Crusades on their way to the Holy Land. One of these Crusaders Richard the Lionheart, took Cyprus in 1191 on his way to the Holy Land and married Berengaria of Navarre in Limassol and then sold Cyprus to the Knights Templar for 100,000 gold bezants. In the 15th century it came under the Venetians, thena century later the Turks took over and remained for 300 years until Britain bought the island in 1878 and it became a Crown Colony in 1928. Thus they still drive on the Left Hand Side, as in many of these places we have visited, the British Empire was at it’s apogee around the time of the invention of the motor car and thus imposed the custom of left hand driving. Eventually after skirmishes from Greek Guerrilas fighters, Cyprus gained independence from Britain on August 16, 1960 (but because of the Summer heat, it is celebrated October 1), with the British retaining until today, two military bases – Episkopi-Akrotiri and Dhekelia. In 1964 the UN had to send a peace keeping force due to the Turkish / Greek fighting until after 10 years the country was split into two with Turks taking the North and Greeks the South. No travel was permitted between the two for 30 years. If all this leaves your head spinning and run for the Monopoly board to see who owns what and when, I don’t blame you. The very good guide Jeanette explained all this and in even more detail as we looked a the countryside heading from stop to stop, Suffice it to say that today it seems like a tranquil place, with friendly people and a great resort and holiday destination. One other quick story, St Barnabas arrived on the island soon after the death of Jesus Christ to preach the new monotheistic religion. He found that the most receptive to what he preached were the large Jewish population as the Romans had a pantheon of deities, whereas the Jews already believed in monotheism. In 57AD, he was stoned to death for his preaching by the Romans.
Limassol (population 185,000) was built between two ancient cities Amathus and Kourion and during the Byzantium period it was known as Neapolis (New Town). It was attacked by the Saracens, burned by the Genoese, sacked by the Egyptians and devastated by the Turks, but since 1974 the population has increased rapidly to the point where it is now the most important port in the Greek sector, has a busy harbour and relies heavily on tourism with some 90,000 beds, 1.5 million visitors a year, employing 30,000 in the industry and producing a revenue of 2 million Euros (US$1.6MM) a day. Some key times to visit are Carnival, Wine festival (Sept 1 to 12) where all get free wine, May for the Flower Festival, and Orthodox Easter – this year in a couple of days (May 1) where delicious bread (Empanada shaped) is given out to all. We were given some to try as we exited the ship, and found them delicious, with sultans, nuts and unknown spices. The 5 star Four Seasons Hotel has apartments for rent or purchase that are entitled to all facilities of the hotel. Other important factors affecting the economy are Carob production and agriculture in general.
The roads from Limassol to Larnaka passes by many archaeological sites such as Amathous, the ancient city-kingdom and the prehistoric sites of Tenta and Choirokitia. This last site with it’s cylindrical stone and mud dwellings appears to be the earliest settlement in the country. Our first stop was the mixed Byzantium and Gothic style, Angeloktisti church set amongst the 500 year old pistachio trees with its spectacular 6th century mosaic of the Virgin Mary with Jesus and Child and spectacular gold and icon screen in front of the main altar. In Greek Orthodox churches, the congregation sits facing a screen like wall filled with icons, lanterns and symbols, while the priest is at the altar behind the screen and basically not visible to the congregation. There is a small opening in the screen, which when close, one could see the altar, but otherwise the altar was not visible. Another fascinating feature was the chairs for the congregation. The wooden seat bottoms could be lowered for sitting or raised for standing in place during the appropriate parts of the service. Then even more interesting and sensible element, was the dual armrests. When I say dual, I mean each side of the person sitting there were two armrests or 4 in total for each chair. One was at or above eye level when seated, used when one was standing in place and the second below, used for resting one’s arms when in seated position. The screen was spectacular with all the figures and guilded wooden setting of the icons, which were being covered by the priest in purple cloth as it is Orthodox Easter in a couple of days, so they could be unveiled for the congregation at Easter Services. An interesting fact came to light that in the Greek Orthodox Church one can be divorced and re-married by the church up to three times!
The next stop was the Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque and Salt Lake home of over 80 types of migratory birds. The Islamic Mosque is unusual in that it is dedicated to a woman – Liu Haran (not sure of spelling). The story goes that she fell off a donkey in this place and died, thus the location of the Mosque. The exterior is grand and in a beautiful lush green setting next to one of the Salt Lakes. The sea water seeps in to this area and after water evaporation it leaves the salt, thus all that could be seen is a large white area of salt that at other times is a salt water lake. This attracts many birds and flamingos at different times of year (not today) and apparently is quite a sight to behold. There were nice gardens to view after entering through the gates and an octagonal “out-building” stood guard opposite the entrance to the main prayer room. The Mosque interior is somewhat plain in contrast to the grand exterior with the usual niche facing Mecca and a wooden staircase leading to a somewhat faded green pulpit where the Imam preaches. Stairs lead to a second floor if there is a lack of space for the congregation on the ground floor. There is a round font like structure in one corner and realising that in Islam one is not baptised, I enquired about it’s purpose – Circumcision rites, was the reply! Just off the main prayer hall and through elaborate iron gates, there is a small room with the Mausoleum and remains of the lady after whom the Mosque is named. As is the norm, there are no decorations or icons other than some Arabic script on the walls. Within the complex there are also the remains of the ancient settlement. Additionally, in a portico at the rear of and attached to the Mosque, there is a large, elaborate and gorgeous marble Mauseleum holding the remains of the late grandmother of the present King of Jordan. Remember for the next round of trivia – Where is King Hussein’s mother buried? – In the Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque on the outskirts of Larnaka, Cyprus!
After seeing the Mosque and Salt Lake we travelled to the nearby town of Larnaka (population 80,000) which is built over the old Mycean and Phonecian city of Kition, the estimate is that the earliest settlement here could date back to the 13th century BC. We passed the McDonald’s, KFC and TGI Fridays’s restaurants that seem to be omnipresent throughout all these countries and seem so out of place. The key place to visit, however is it’s Byzantine, St. Lazarus Church, built over the tomb of Lazarus, the beloved friend of Jesus and whom “He raised from the dead”. After Jesus’s crucifixion and resurrection, Lazarus came to Cyprus and became it’s first Bishop (of the so named Guideon). Funds were required to build the church so part of the remains and relics of Lazarus were sent to Constantinople in exchange for funds and there is a plaque at the entrance dating the existing church structure to 890 AD. However, part of the remains including his skull and limb bones are displayed in an elaborately decorated silver and gold ossuary at the chancel steps in front of the screen with icons that separates the congregation from the altar and priests. Gold icons, elaborate chandeliers, portraits and icons are everywhere and is truly impressive. Similar seats with the dual armrests were present and the entire, relatively small space exudes riches of all types. In the crypt below the altar, one can crouch down and see the two stone sarcophagi in which Lazarus was buried. Apparently his body was transferred from one to the other and both lie at right angles to one another, with the bottom and sides intact and only the top broken into three parts with one piece set to the side to view inside the sarcophagus. The name of the town was Guideon and changed to Larnaca which means sarcophagus, to honour Lazarus. A fascinating place. As we departed, we made a few minor purchases at the gift shop and I forgot to pick up my credit card. Panic! Fortunately one of the tour guides came out with it and all was well in the world!!! As we passed the well preserved Roman Aqueduct and modern wind farm (towers with propellers that create electricity), past the monasteries at the top of mountains, we made our way to the town of Lefkara (white mountain – due to the white colour of all the soil and rocks).
Lefkara is a charming village with narrow winding street and terracotta roofs, women making exquisite embroidery since Medieval times and patterns dating to 2000 BC, with the men making silverware. Our first stop was at the Kentpo Lefkara Pavilion Taverna and Cafe in the Center of town to enjoy grilled Halloumi cheese with pita bread and a drink. We were then given much too short a time to explore the village, so we spent the entire time in Harry and Maria Loizou’s silverware and lace shop. Harry is from Liverpool and a big Liverpool football fan. They had some really magnificent merchandise, but 20 minutes to shop and be back on the coach resulted in some purchases. We could have spent half a day exploring the town, shops, Museum and Timios Starvos church. An interesting observation as we drove around the countryside was the presence on every home of a water tank on the roof which stores pumped water, during the days water is available, then fed by gravity into the homes on the days when water is not available each week. We returned to the ship, dropped our purchases and then took the shuttle coach into Limassol. It was great wandering around, seeing the shops and were told of a particularly good seafood restaurant a short walk from the Center of town, that is mainly patronised by locals, not tourist. We found the Afxentis Fish Restaurant and had to wait outside until 6 PM when the owner appeared, opened the restaurant with us as the only customers. Indeed fresh fish was available as you entered, you could pick your own, which Nelson did and was very pleased. An excellent meal of Greek salad, various types of Hummus with Pita bread and King prawns in garlic and ouzo sauce. A memorable meal in an elegant setting which we all thoroughly enjoyed. Back to the ship to watch the sail away and on to Israel tomorrow.
Roger & Anne Travels 