Saturday February 2, 2019 – At 10 AM we were supposed to entered the Yangon river on our slow voyage up-river to the center of the City of Yangon, but due to delays this was not until noon. We docked at the SPW Wharf near the famous Strand Hotel, one of the 5 iconic colonial hotels in Asia (e.g. Raffles in Singapore; The Eastern & Oriental in Penang, Malaysia). In general Credit / Debit cards are not accepted but US Dollar bills in good shape are accepted (US$1 = 1,530 MMK or £1=1,973MMK).
Until the 17th Century Dagon as Yangon was known, was a fishing village and a significant religious pilgrimage site. Under King Alaungpaya it started to grow and was renamed Yangon. During the British rule and following the second Anglo-Burmese war in 1852 it was renamed Rangoon and became the capital and principal city / commercial hub of Burma. The city was redesigned on a grid pattern and became a major cosmopolitan city with significant Chinese and South Asian populations. The Capital was moved in 2005 to Naypyidaw but Yangon remains the commercial center and largest city in the country with a population of 6 million (53 – 55 million in the country). The name Burma comes from the principal indigenous population the Bama. In 1989 Rangoon reverted back to it’s prior name Yangon and Burma became Myanmar. It is 90% Buddhist although other religions are tolerated. 135 Ethnic groups are present which make ruling somewhat difficult. A deep sea Harbour is being constructed down river as the Harbour in Yangon is too shallow for anything but the ships with little draught.
We watched, on board, an excellent film “The Lady” about the current Leader – Aung San Suu Kyi and her husband Dr. Michael Aris & 2 children and the struggle to combat the regime in Myanmar and establish a democracy.
This was followed by an interesting lecture by Ye Htut (A Myanmar Government Minister, Military Officer and visiting lecturer in Singapore) on the Rohingya Crisis in Northern Myanmar where there are 700,000 Bangladesh refugees as well as the long term battle between the Muslims and Rahkine Buddhists. The Ethnic locals prior to British Rule 1824 and the self semi autonomous state permitted free flow of individuals across the India and Bangladesh borders of Myanmar. Since WW II, many different attempts have been tried but none have succeeded to fully resolve the situation. Furthermore with the UK / USA and Western parties tending to take the side of India and Bangladesh, Myanmar is rapidly becoming closely allied with China and Japan.
From 1992 to 2013 Border and Immigration Control Command “NA SA KA” was imposed where there was mapping, registration, Inspection, photographing families outside their homes etc all controlled by military intelligence. However, the West applied pressure saying that this was anti human rights. This was abolished in 2013. Since then there have been numerous clashes with village elders being killed as well as police HQ and villages attacked. All this has led to the major refugee crisis. It is now a breeding ground for Middle East and Pakistan terrorist recruiting, and major drug trafficking. For example 3 million methamphetamine tablets were seized in 2013 by the authorities, by 2017 this had grown to 40 million and in 2018 up to 64 million tablets.
After traveling up river we tied up on the dock at 3:00pm. The afternoon was principally dedicated to visiting the spectacular Shwedagon Pagoda (Shwe – Gold; Dagon – Original name of Yangon) where shoes and socks had to be removed before entering. The reason for this is that originally the soldiers walked all over with their military boots so Queen Victoria issued an edict that anyone who enters must remove all footwear. It is the most sacred Buddhist site in Myanmar. It houses 8 hairs of the Gautama Buddha brought back to the Singuttura Hill by 2 merchant brothers – Travisa and Bahalika. In the 15th century, Queen Shin Sawbu donated her weight in Gold to the temple and has grown in size since it was started. It is built on a hill that is 60 meters above the surrounding area and the Stupa is now 100 meters (325 feet) high, has 52 – 60 tons of Gold (depending on who tells the story) 548 Diamonds, 217 Rubies on the weather vane and at the top of the spire. There is a 76 carat diamond surrounded by 5,000 small diamonds in a gold bowl at the peak. There have been many gifts of gold and jewels and the main solid Stupa has thick gold tiles inscribed with the names of the donors (US$1,700 minimum). Many private individuals have built altars, Buddha statues and small chapels richly decorated with wood carvings, gold, jewels, bells etc. Due to the sizable amount of money given to the temple each year (US$7 per non Burmese guest access) plus many local donations, the administration is done by people of the town and each term is for 2 years with no re-election. It has to be one of the most spectacular sights we have ever witnessed anywhere in the world and photos don’t do it justice.
Getting to the temple we went through the city with it’s many British colonial buildings passing the famous Scott’s Market (closed Monday) with it’s 1,700 – 2,000 shops.
The guide Berto was brilliant, excellent English, originally from Mongolia and at 47 and proudly a Catholic having converted from Buddhist has lived in Yangon for the past 20 years.
Many people particularly in the 10th and 11th centuries migrated from Tibet to Burma.
A few other facts we were given that are of interest:-
⁃ Driving is on the Right hand side of the road.
⁃ In 2005 the capital was moved 3 hours drive away from Yangon as the military dictatorship at the time was concerned about a naval military attack by the West.
⁃ Myanmar is very rich in natural resources and minerals.
⁃ There is more natural water in the country than any other country in the world other than Canada,
⁃ It is the second largest opium producer.
⁃ About 90% are Buddhist; 6% Christian and 4% Muslim in the country.
For those of us Linguistics “geeks” like my grandson Peter (other readers can skip this section) – Writing is left to right with 33 consonants and 8 vowels and 10 superscripted devowelizers. The early Sanskrit derived script derived became BRAHMI from 3rd Century BCE (BC) to 1st CE (AD). This migrated through the 4th Century to Southern Indian Script (Early Pallava and Late Kadamba periods); 4th to 8th Centuries was the PYU Script and is the main script of the first archaeologically significant periods. Next was the MOM script through the 12th Century followed by the current Myanmar script going through the significant Bagan period (33 consonants 10 vowels), the Invana and Konebaung periods to today’s script. The Bagan and PYU scripts are still used by monks for religious writings, but are generally unreadable by the population.
On the second day, Sunday February 3, 2019 – Another excellent English speaking guide took us to the National Museum and Scott’s Market.
We discovered at the museum that there are 8 principal monarchical periods in Myanmar history:-
1. PYU – 2nd Century BC to 9th Century AD – Beikthano, Halin and Sreksetra were the Capitals – 47 Kings based in Sreksetra
2. BAGAN – 10th to 13th Century AD – Bagan Capital – 55 Kings
3. PINYA – 13th to 14th Century AD – Pinya and Sagaing Capitals – 14 Kings
4. INNWA – 14th to 16th Century AD – Innwa and Hanthawady Capitals – 29 Kings
5. TAUNG NGU – 16th to 17 th Century AD – Taung Ngu and Hanthawady Capitals – 3 Kings
6. NYAUNG YANG – 17th to 18th Century AD – Innwa Capital – 10 Kings
7. KONBAUNG – 18th to 19th Century AD – Shwe Bo, Innwa and Amarapura Capitals – 9 Kings
8. YADANABON – 19th Century AD – Mandaly Capital – 2 kings.
The museum is very interesting, not all that much is displayed and the rooms lacked light, but the objects displayed were adequately lighted. On the Ground floor the main “attraction” was the Lion Throne standing some 20 meters high. This was the throne of the last 2 kings of Myanmar in Mandalay before the British took over and moved the capital to Rangoon. The 1st floor had Royal regalia mostly in gold and jade with precious stones, mainly Ruby’s which are plentiful in the country. The 2nd floor had Art and the 3rd floor musical instruments and arts & crafts. We did not get to the top floor with ethnic dress, but what we did see was very interesting.
We then took the coach to Scott’s Market and wandered the many stalls for an hour finding anything and everything. We did pick up a couple of simple paintings from a disabled man who could neither speak nor hear and had crippled hands and legs, but a great smile and happy that we took his wares. It provided for some interesting bargaining, particularly as he was selling in local currency and we were buying in US Dollars.
A few of us requested to be dropped off at the very elegant Strand Hotel where Judy, Anne and I enjoyed a delicious Burmese lunch with impeccable service.
Judy and I wandered back to the ship and Anne had found a Catholic Church – St. Mary’s Cathedral on Anawratha Street that was 3 blocks away (20 minute walk as they are long blocks) and joined us later on the ship with a sore foot for dinner. However, a terrific day was had by all.
The next and last day in Yangon, Monday February 4th, we had arranged with the local tour company (Asian Trails Tour Ltd. – Mr Saw Win, Manager – Phones +959-45341-1155 or 1177; Mobile +959-4317-42861; E-mail – sawwin@asiantrails.com.mm OR res@asiantrails.com.mm; 635(j), Yoma Yeikthar, Pyay Road, Kamayut Township, Yangon, Myanmar) to provide us with a private guide – Ne Lin and driver met us at the ship at 8am and took us on a private tour of places we had not seen.
Our first stop was to admire the Sule Pagoda, (one of the oldest built 2600 years ago) which is next to a Mosque, a Church, City Hall and the Maha Bandoola Garden – Home of the Independence Monument.
Our next stop after various other landmarks were pointed out was Jan Daw Gyi Lake and Karaweik Palace Restsurant shaped like the Royal Barge. The lake was developed by the British as a reservoir for Rangoon and now is a peaceful park with lots of birds and a walk (built on pylons) around the lake that was under repair. However, we did wander to the very large Restautant built in Stone and Concrete as a replica of the Royal Barge. After photography and explanation of some of the symbols we headed to our next destination.
The Chaucer Htat Gyee Pagoda – the Reclining Buddha which is 18 meters (59 feet) high and 70 meters (230 feet) long all in gold and precious stones with thousands of other Buddha imagers buried inside and many more outside. 30 odd images of Buddha with hands in different positions indicating education, enlightenment etc. Again shoes and socks removed and it was particularly interesting as the guide was a Buddhist so was able to explain the “parables” represented by the pictures on the walls and the 108 squares on the bottom of the feet representing prior lives before the Buddha reached enlightenment and Nirvana.
Our final stop was at the “Buddha First Sacred Hair Pagoda” – (Botatataung Pagoda) – It is 132 feet 7 inches tall and the Stupa structure consists of several levels. Starting at the bottom there are the following levels – terraces, bands, bell, inverted bowl, Moulding, Inverted lotus sepals, YWE a crystal ball like structure, open lotus sepals, lotus-banana-bud, HTI umbrella, cone, ruby and diamond jeweled weather vane and on top a diamond orb. In the center of the Pagoda lies a strand of the Buddha hair which apparently was given to the ruler and the first, smaller Stupa was built in the time of Buddha to house the relic, making it one of the earliest ever built. This was on display in the center of the structure within gold lined walls in a sort of monstrance.
On the grounds of the temple we observed a special prayer service for a father and daughter who kneeled before the effigy of a man with an outstretched arm having a golden finger. This is apparently very popular with the Thailand people. Offerings of coconut and banana was made and we saw people picking up the offerings, putting the banana’s into a plastic tub which we assumed was then sold again to the next group of worshipers at the gate. Great recycling!
In the other wing of the temple was a solid gold seated Buddha some 5 feet high that had belonged to the last king of Burma. Also, as the stupa was being repaired, we were able to see up close the last levels that are usually at the top of the spire with gold leaf pealing off and will be repaired before being put up as well as the weather vane with some 300+ rubies and diamonds encrusted in the intricately carved gold structure.
We departed from there returning to the ship where Judy and I got back onto the ship, but Anne stayed in the vehicle to be taken to the airport and a flight to Singapore where she will stay until flying to Sri Lanka where she will once again join us. The reason for this is that the ship insisted that no-one without a visa in their passports from India could be on the ship when we reached the Andaman Islands (a former penal colony and where the ‘bad’ people that the British wanted to get rid of were sent when Britain ruled India). Australia was also a British Penal colony and about twice as many were sent to Australia as were sent to Andaman.
A lecture on the outlook for the 2020 elections in Myanmar that evening was interesting, albeit a big biased as it was given by a military officer from Myanmar who felt that the civilian government was bad and military government good. Some of the interesting points that we learned was the way the government is set up.
There are 2 houses (Hluttaws) the Upper house (Amyotha Hluttaw) has 12 representatives from each of the 14 states and regions = 168 plus 56 selected from the military for a total of 224. The Lower house (Puithu Hluttaw) has 330 representatives from the townships and 110 selected / appointed by the military for a total of 440. The military by the 2008 constitution, which they developed, have always 25% of the legislature and to change the constitution you need more than 75%. Thus some military would have to agree to any change. Furthermore, in that constitution it was written that no-one married to a foreigner or with foreign born children could be president. Written specifically so Aung San Suu Kyi could not be President. They got around it by giving her another title and position above the president and as such rules the country today.
The 2 houses together form the electoral college that selects the President (not the people). The elected civilian lower house (330) select one candidate, the upper house elected civilians (168) choose another candidate and the military appointed (166) select a third candidate. These 664 people vote for President, 1st Vice President and 2nd Vice President from these 3 candidates.
After drinks, Althea (WREN), Valerie (Foreign Office in the Middle East), Judy and I had a nice dinner and fun chat.
So ends this time in Myanmar. However we were taken with how friendly the people were and how much more there was to see in the country that we vowed to return again soon.
Off now across the Indian Ocean (Andaman Sea) to the Andaman Islands thence to Sri Lanka.
Roger & Anne Travels 