Thursday September 26, 2019 – Boarded Queen Mary 2 in Southampton.
We loaded the car with a dozen or so suitcases, and we drove down to the docks with the Cliffords in a taxi in convoy. Having delivered the luggage, we dropped off the car and headed aboard for lunch, the safety drill, dinner and bed as there was a change of hour forward since we are headed to Le Havre in France, to see Rouen (the ancestral birthplace of our maternal grandfather), before heading across the Atlantic to New York.
This time we are seated at table 206 on 3rd Floor by the window (Ormon the waiter), Norman (15 years on QM2 – Almost from it’s launching, Manila) is our cabin Steward (11.065). The same Captain – Aseen A. Hashmi (from Coventry) that was on the QM2 on our voyage to the UK was still on Board. The Massage ladies were Tiffany from South Africa for Anne and Gigi from Thailand for Roger. The Film Crew continued on Board ship (without the Stars) that was on before, but the trip was dedicated to “Space”, so most of the lectures were to be by Astronauts, Space historians, space law etc. The key staff were – Entertainment Director – Catherine Kennedy; Assistant – Edward Moffat; Housekeepers – Andrea Kaiser; Executive Chef – Krause Kramer.
Friday September 27, 2019 – Le Havre France (for Rouen)
We docked (Starboard to Quay) early this morning after our overnight trip from Southampton and having our clocks put forward an hour. We were in the theater by just after 7 AM got our coach assignment (6) and headed off the ship.
The tour (Guide Geraldine; Driver Isabel; RHS) took us the hour drive to Rouen. This was exciting as it was the first time we visited the birthplace of our Maternal Grandfather.
Rouen is the Capital of Normandy, situated almost half way between Paris and Le Havre. It is a port on the Seine River whose origin is unknown, but Archaeologists have dated a dugout canoe to 900 BCE. Certainly, by 50 BCE the Romans occupied the town, called it Rotomagus, lying at the confluence of the Robec and Seine rivers. Christianity was adopted early and after the Edict of Tolerance (313 AD / CE), it became a religious center. From 841 CE onward the Vikings / Danes / Norwegians were pillaging the area (Focusing On the rich and poorly defended monasteries and cathedrals). By 911 the King of France, (CHARLES III the Simple – 898-922) fearing that they would attack Paris, formed a treaty with the Viking leader Rodo in which they would be given the land and installed them as the rulers of the area (Thus Normandy meaning the North men area). From the Viking side, they agreed to 1) Become Christian and 2) Defend the territory against other Vikings. Rodo (Robert) “The walker” (he was so big that no horses could carry him so he walked) is buried in the Cathedral in Rouen. There were many Kings / Rulers of Normandy that gained fame such as Richard the Lion-heart, and William the Conqueror. This autonomous situation continued until the rulers felt they had too much power, whereupon it was re-annexed to France. From the 11th century onward Rouen became a major center in the Duchy of Normandy.
Later during the 100 years war (actually 130 years during the 14th & 15th centuries) between England and France who were at war through the rise of Joan of Arc to power. From 1419 to 1449, The English ruled Rouen until Joan of Arc who won skirmishes and started the movement leading to the eventual expulsion of the English. As is often the case, She became too powerful and popular so CHARLES VII (The Victorious 1403-1461) captured Joan, tried and convicted her as a witch and Jeanne D’Arc was burned alive 30 May 1431. A modern church lies in her honor in the marketplace site with a large cross in the forecourt marking the exact location of the pyre. Charles VII subsequently held another trial and she was vindicated from being a “witch” which was of great relief to her family.
During the Renaissance Period, Rouen grew in stature and was France’s second city. Since then it has undergone it’s ups and downs.
On the 9th June 1940 the city was occupied by the Germans until 1944, when the Canadian troops liberated the City on August 30, but not before major bombing damage had been inflicted.
The first building we visited was the Gothic Nôtre Dame Cathedral. The first cathedral was built by Bishop Victrice in 393 AD (CE).
The second Cathedral started to be built in 1,000 AD (CE) by Archbishop Robert (989 – 1037 AD / CE) and completed by Bishop Maurille, being consecrated in 1063. It was 103 meters in length and large but very plain.
In 1140 Archbishop Hugh of Amiens, wanting to modernize the building, commissioned the St. Romain (Gothic) Tower, which projected 6 meters beyond the alignment of the North wall. In 1140 the West Front was rebuilt with 3 richly carved gates of St. Stephen, St. John the Baptist and the central St. Romain, which still exist. In 1200 work began to expand the East Side adding the Cannon’s Choir and Sanctuary. In 1485 the South-West “Butter” tower was started and completed in 1507 designed by Guillaume Pontifs and completed by JacquesLe Roux. It was called the “butter tower” as it was funded by taxes on butter use during lent which was otherwise prohibited. It was spectacular from the outside and the inside was equally impressive
Our next wander was along the street filled with old beamed homes to the Clock Arch which is the “marker” of the “UNESCO Heritage” City of 110,000 people that is Rouen. It was started in 1527 and completed in 1529. Built over an arch in the street it has only the hour hand. Below the clock, triumphal chariots in bas-relief, progress each day with the deity of the day and signs of the Zodiac. It has a face on both sides of the arch and the under part of the arch is richly carved telling other stories. It has survived unscathed since it’s installation.
The last official building in the tour was the Church of St. Joan of Arc. An external tall cross stands where she was burned at the stake in 1431 in the marketplace. The market still surrounds the odd shaped church, resembling the pointed helmet of armor, with an extension on one side. It stands on the site of the former St. Vincent’s Church which was bombed on May 30. 1944.
We then had an hour to wander around and we asked where the Chant Des Oiseaux Street was located, the birthplace of our Grandfather. It is a large street to the right of the train Station, but too far to get to on this visit.
So we wandered around, visiting other churches and streets, savoring the Baguette at “Paul Bakery” and wandering in and out of the shops.
The coach returned us to Le Havre by just after 1 PM so we had 5 hours to spare before we had to be on board.
We took the shuttle to the main Square, asked one of the locals for the best place to have a great meal and wandered the 6 blocks to La Taverne Paillette (22 Rue George’s Braque, 76600 Le Havre Tel 02-35-41-31-50; http://www.taverne-Paillette.com) which was established in 1596. It was outstanding and well worth recommending and a return visit.
Following lunch we walked to St. Joseph‘s Church (built on the site of a prior church which was destroyed on September 5th, 1944). It is today, the most iconic building in Le Havre. From the exterior it looks more like a very tall (107 Meter / 351 Ft) vertical octagonal tube shaped lighthouse above a square pedestal base shaped like a Greek Cross. It is known as a spiritual lighthouse. The first stone was laid on October 21, 1951 and opened as a house of worship on March 23, 1959. It has 700 tons of steel & 50,000 tons of concrete with 12,768 pieces of stained glass on a surface of 378 Square Meters (4,070 Sq Ft) of windows. There are no paintings or images other than a statue of St. Joseph and one of the Virgin mother. The stained glass was done by Marguerite Huré and changes color based on the position of the sun in the sky. Father Marcel Marie was the founder and builder of the church and the Architect was August Perret.
The reason for the temple being dedicated to St. Joseph was that the neighborhood was of Ship Carpenters and the Shipyard thus St. Joseph the Carpenter, was appropriate.
We then wandered the streets until we came across two white curved / round, windowless buildings designed by Oscar Niemeyer, known as the Volcano, one with a large black sculptured hand extending out with a saying (in French) “On a day like this one, the Earth, the beaches and the mountains will all disappear.” This is a library and the other is a Theatre.
It was now time to take the shuttle back to the ship and a cup of soup before retiring for the night.
Roger & Anne Travels 