2020-01-26 – Barbados

Sunday January 26, 2020 – Barbados

Barbados (Drive LHS; Starboard to Quay) is the most easterly island in the west Indies with the powerful Atlantic ocean on it’s east coast and calm waters of the Caribbean Sea on the south and west coasts. Our guide indicated that it was all the Atlantic Ocean, so there seems to be some disagreement. All is closed Sunday so it is best to be in Barbados on other days of the week if you like to shop, eat or be otherwise entertained. It is shaped somewhat like a tear drop with a chunk taken out of the upper right hand side and measures 21 miles long and 14 miles wide at it widest point with an overall area of 166 mi.² – or slightly larger than the Isle of Wight. Mount Hillaby in the North center of the island is the highest point at 1,115 feet. It was “discovered” in 1627 (native tribes lived there) and it gained independence from Britain in 1966. Unlike the rest of it’s Caribbean neighbors it was never taken by force. Today it has a blend of British and West Indian cultures leading to the perception that it has the friendliest people in the Caribbean.

The population of the island is 300,000 (90% of African Decent) with some 1/3 of which live in and around the capital – Bridgetown. Heroes Square is the civic heart of the town with a central statue of Admiral Nelson erected in 1813 on the green. The island’s chief administrative offices, opened in 1874 and the Barbados Parliament conducts its work in The Renaissance style building on the Square. In the neighboring streets there are a number of elegant Georgian houses, St. Michael’s Cathedral, (originally from the 17th century, was rebuilt in coral rock in 1780 after being destroyed by a hurricane). Another of the key landmarks of Bridgetown is the Kensington Oval cricket ground where the West Indian teams play and are one of the strongest cricket teams in the world. It’s hero Gary Sobers (who still lives on the island) stands as a statue outside the cricket grounds. Other key things to see on the island are 1) Gun Hill signal station dating from 1868; 2) The orchid world (formerly a hog and chicken farm); 3) Saint John’s church; 4) Hackleton‘s cliff which is one of the highest points on the island at 997 feet; 5) The Andromeda Gardens; 6) Sunbury Plantation house over 300 years old and restored, and 7) The many beaches, water-sports, golf etc.

Our excellent driver / guide Hamden on the “Coast to Coast” tour (bus 12, plate BT14), first took us to St. John’s Parish Church, while explaining about the country.

Some of the interesting elements he explained were (in no particular order of importance, just the way he chatted):-

1. One of the last Woolworth shops is still in operation on the island.

2. All locals get free education and medical service and some get free bus service (young, disabled and the elderly).

3. The British ruled Barbados from 1627 when it was claimed for King James I. They established the 3rd oldest parliament (after UK & Bermuda). They left in 1906, and independence was granted on November 30, 1966. However it still remains part of the Commonwealth and as such the Queen is the titular head with a Governor General being named as her representative. The current one is a lady as is the Prime Minister a female as well as head of the judiciary, is female. Elections are held every 5 years.

4. There are 6 women to every man on the island as per the 2010 census, mainly originating to the outflow of men who were paid $0.15 an hour in Barbados Vs $2.20 an hour to build the Panama Canal. About 60,000 men went to Panama where many died or remained after the construction. There is a 97% literacy and 12% unemployment in the country. Women receive 3 month maternity leave pay and disabled people receive B$1,200 a month pension. Retirement is at age 67.

5. The island is divided into 11 parishes and there are 100 religious denominations on the island. From north to south and from west to east these parishes are Saint Lucy, Saint Peter, Saint Andrew, Saint James, Saint Joseph, Saint Thomas, Saint John, Saint Michael, Saint George, Saint Philip and the Southernmost parish is Christ Church. Attendance of Church is of great importance and indeed, as previously stated, all commercial activity is closed on Sunday. Shops, restaurants (except in hotels) and almost all places other than churches are closed on Sunday so it is not a good day to visit. Today we visit on Sunday!!!!!

6. Since 1973 the Barbados dollar has a fixed foreign exchange rate vs the US dollar of 2B$=US$1.

7. The Governor General’s home was built in 1703 and the nearby Ilario estate serves as the residence of the Prime Minister.

8. Temperatures range from a high of 34C in the summer to a low of 17C in winter.

9. Running water for homes was established in 1861.

10. Many houses have solar water heaters on their roof at a cost of B$3K-B$5K.

11. Island life and rum are credited for the island centenarians. Currently there are 130 people who are over 100. the oldest woman who died last year was 113 as did the oldest man who was 110. Currently the oldest living woman on the island is 112 and the oldest living man is 108

12. Talking about rum, there are 2,500 rum shops on the island which serve as the equivalent of pubs where people go to enjoy a drink and a chat, solving the problems of the world. The oldest rum distillery on the island is Mount Gay which was established in 1703. One of the main crops on the island is of course sugar cane, thus the amount of rum being produced.

13. There is a legend, practiced now by most people on the island, that on New Year’s eve you should have money in all of your pockets as that will bring you money for the upcoming year.

14. The name of the island Barbados comes from when the Portuguese in 1511 came to the island and saw the Banyan (or bearded fig) tree with it’s long root system looking like a bearded person, thus they called it “Os Barbado” from which came the name Barbados.

15. There are many small wooden houses called “chattel houses”, that are easily movable. People live in one area and when they want to move, they carefully remove the roof, knock down the sides and carry it all to a new location. The sides are held together by glue and nails and thus easily removed. The wives in order to induce the men to rebuild rapidly, would sit nearby with beer and food which was only given to the men once the task was completed.

16. We saw various Green Barbados monkeys which were introduced into the country and now number over 40,000. They are pests as they destroy crops, thus there is a bounty on monkeys in which the government will pay for you to bring them in dead or alive. If you shoot and kill a monkey all you need is the tail as proof, to claim the reward.

17. Always of interest is the financial situation of the people living on the island. Here we found that petrol is US$8.00 per gallon. Base salaries are B$25K (US12.5K) per year and up to this level they are not taxed. Up to B$35,000 (US$17.5K) a year, the tax is 17.5% and any income over B$35,000 is taxed at 35%. Basic housing runs in the US$300K to US$600K. However, many celebrities have multi-million dollar homes. Currently on the market is an Italian inspired home selling for US$125 Million. Cliff Richard has a £6MM home, Oprah Winfrey, Tony Blair, Rihanna etc all have multi million dollar homes. Rihanna is a native of the island and has a luxury condominium near the exclusive Sandy Lane Hotel. Other Barbados celebrities are Gwyneth Paltrow, Cuba Gooding Jr amongst others.

18. The figures we were given about the Sandy Lane (where Simon Cowell spends time each December), is the most expensive hotel, which during the high (winter) season charges US$3,000 a night for a room or US$15,000 a night for a suite all with 2 week minimum stay. There are three 18 hole golf courses charging US$4,000 a round. This West Coast area of St. James & St. Thomas parishes is the most expensive, luxurious, whereas the South coast has similar beaches and far lower cost.

St. John’s Church is built on a promontory with a terrific view from the churchyard with it’s ancient tombs amid frangipange trees. The Anglican Church was a wooden structure built in 1645 but burned down so the current Neo-Gothic stone structure dates to 1836. Church was letting out when we arrived, so we were able to see the inside.

The next stop was Bathsheba in the parish of Saint Joseph. It is here that most of the surfing takes place along the beautiful beaches and an annual surfing competition draws people from all over the world to this area. Of note along the beach were large stones that have been gradually carved out, through constant erosion of the waves such that these enormous rocks appears to be floating on the water. This was the end of the line for the train service from Bridgetown, the capital in Saint Michaels parish.

We then traveled north east along the eastern shore past Cattle Wash and Barclays Park. Cattle Wash was so named as the farmers would bring the cattle down to the sea to wash them off in the salt water. Barclays park was so named as it was given to the people by Barclays bank. There are many picnic areas and being Sunday all the locals were out dressed in their fineries after church enjoying family time and picnics by the waterside.

Our final stop was at a Highlands Adventure Weather Station where we enjoyed a nice rum punch overlooking the bay. Returning to the Quay we lunched on the local favorite – Flying Fish at the Coconut Bar and Grill washed down by local Banks Beer.

Being Sunday, we took a taxi to St. Patrick’s Catholic Church (established in 1899), but it was all locked up and the afternoon service was at 6PM which was too close to our departure time to try and make. Thus a return to the ship. The quay shopping and Coach / taxi area is some 15 minutes walk from the ship. After a nice dinner we retired to bed, where we were greeted by our new Cabin steward who had just flown in from the Philippines – Romulo, as our prior steward flew home to the Philippines after completing her contact. We were tired but a good day on the island.