Sunday, February 23, 2020 – Punta Arenas, Chile
Punta Arenas (Sandy Point) is the southernmost City on the South American mainland and one of the most remote cities on the planet.
The day was dull, slight rain as we anchored in the Magellan Straights near Punta Arenas bay and managed to get the first tender into the town. We had ordered a private car, guide and driver, but they had not arrived. All the 15 coaches were there but not our guide. The driver from Akainik tours (cell 09-9640-2539; 061-222-0278;e-mail:- LMANCILLA53@Gmail.com) was present and the guide eventually showed up. He told us that he was not supposed to work today, but at the last minute, he was fast asleep and was called that he had to be at the dock in 20 minutes and had to do the job. Considering we had booked a private car well over a month ago, it was not a good start and went downhill rapidly. He explained that he was actually a sociology professor at the University and did guiding as an extra. He had his agenda which was basically to just drive around the town, not explaining what we were seeing, but to give us a 4 hour history lesson with precise dates and names going back into the 1400’s. However, he started some 20,000 years ago and even back to the dinosaurs and ice age! Many dinosaur bones have been found in the area. As we asked about buildings or other things he would give a short or one word answer and return to his history lesson. His idea was to drive from one end of town to the other very slowly talking history. While it was very interesting, it would have also been nice to see more of the sights, albeit there are not many in town.
Apparently Magdalena Island that just a couple of years ago had some 50,000 penguins, now only has about 5,000 as the other sea birds attack the nests and feed on the eggs and chicks.
So we went to the main square (Plaza de Armas) where there is a statue of Magellan and a very shiny foot of one of the side statues, which we duly rubbed indicating we would, at some time, return.
The “History Guide” then told us in detail of the two wealthiest families in town the Meléndez and the Braun’s each one trying to outdo each other and build large mansions on the main square next to each other. The José Mélendez (with his wife Maria Behety arrived from Uruguay in 1876 – He died April 24,1918) Palace has a tower so he could see when ships were arriving to go and offer them provisions. They were merchants initially from Spain that worked in different aspects of providing supplies to ships, transportation at all the different aspects of trade in that part of the world. At one point in time the son of one family married daughter of the other and they built their own palace half a block away. We were able to visit the Braun palace which is now a luxury hotel – José Nogueira Hotel. The Mélendez mansion is now the Chilean Navy Officers Club There is now a smaller house in between the two that is also part of the Chilean Navy.
The two families have subsequently moved to Buenos Aires and return periodically in the summer just to make sure that their business is running smoothly. As benefactors in the town they constructed schools where all the children get a free education, libraries and other such public works. However today, and in the recent past there has been a negative element of society that is spray painting graffiti and red paint all over statues as well as the Mélendez grave in the cemetery, which we visited later.
Our next stop was the Cerro la Cruz for a panoramic view of the city and bay.
However, before leaving the main square, we told the guide that being Sunday we wanted to go to church. He indicated that no one comes to town before 11AM so that would be the time of the first service. He was inventing things as Anne went to the main Cathedral (built between 1892-1897) and the masses were at 10 AM and 12:30!!!
Obviously the guide had no clue and was making things up as his only interest was spewing out dates and names. So after the panoramic view we returned to the main square and attended Mass at the Cathedral at 10.
From here we slowly drove to the far end of town, periodically interrupting the name and date man, much to his consternation and confusion, to enquiry about a park we passed with dinosaurs, which we would like to have seen, but he dismissed as a child’s park. After one of these interruptions when we asked about the Cemetery that we had heard was important to visit, the driver turned around in the middle of the street and we proceeded to hear that the guide did not like to go to the cemetery because his family is hurried there. However, we did make it to the cemetery which is known for four major things. The mausoleum of the Ménendez family (which was defaced with red, blood-like paint, all over the exterior.
The Braun Mausoleum which is usually locked in a fenced in area. Fortunately, the keeper of the cemetery was there and as he and our guide were friends, we were permitted to enter not only the section, but also the actual mausoleum itself.
The third item to see at the far left (as you enter) is the tomb of the unknown native.
The last one is the circular topiary cedars (arborvitae) forming long corridors between the graves. The tops of these trees are not cut off (we were told that it was for the safety of the people pruning) so it gave a somewhat comical atmosphere as if a wild teenager shaving the sides of his head but leaving the top wild and floppy.
The guide did his best to get us out of there as soon as possible, except when we were at the Brown tomb, where he spent some 10-15 minutes giving another group the tour of the place leaving us to chat with the Cemetery keeper.
As we left the cemetery Anne heard the guide say to the driver, go in the opposite direction as slow as possible and then head to the ship. I asked if we could go to the museum with the replicas if the ships, to which he answered that will take us over the time so I will have to find out how much more it will cost. We said take us back to the ship while he continued on with dates and names. Even once we got to the dock and we’re about to bid goodby, he continued on with his dates and names for an additional 20 minutes while we were parked by the dock!
The only time he veered of script was to complain that his very clever don was denied admission to the local university because of a quota system that favored the children of the native population!
In summary, as a tour guide, he should keep his job as a sociology professor!
We decided not to even think about having lunch in town, but rather take the next tender back to the ship and have a nice pub lunch on board.
The departure was early at 3:45 PM and we continued the voyage along the Magellan Straights past Fort Bulnes, along Cape Froward towards the Pacific Ocean. The tip of the Brunswick peninsula forms the southernmost part of the contiguous land mass of South America and on the top of the mountain a white cross was visible as we followed the waterway with a hard starboard turn. This cross measures 150 meters (492 feet) in height is made of metal tubes welded in a circle forming a round mesh which will stand up to the severe winds and weather. Many other crosses place here have been destroyed by the weather. It was built to commemorate the visit of Pope JOHN PAUL II to Chile. An amazing sight and unexpected.
Also unexpected, but the Captain did warn us before, was the severe weather we were in for that night. It was as bad if not worse than the force 11 winds we experienced going down the Atlantic side a few days earlier. Fortunately, it was at night, but persisted into the morning hours.
We saw the first part of the show – The High Tones – Four young English lads doing songs from the 1960’s. After the first four songs we were tired, falling asleep and the group was average at best, so we retired early.
It was interesting that during the night one of the large (4ft X 6ft) thick windows in the swimming pool area stopping people from falling overboard, not only cracked under the strain, but was shattered with the glass disappearing into the sea. Immediately a wooden replacement (4X8 Sheet of wood) was screwed in place to avoid problems. We noticed that another couple of windows were cracked, so replacements will have y to be made up one the return to the UK.
Roger & Anne Travels 