December 31 (Sunday) – FUNCHAL, MADEIRA. PORTUGAL

December 31 (Sunday) – FUNCHAL, MADEIRA, PORTUGAL – [Starboard side to dock; Drive RHS 7:30-1:30AM next day] (Capital Funchal, population 120,000 total Island population 265,000; Size – 56 X 23 Kilometers (35X14 miles), area 741 Square Kilometers (286 Sq Miles); Driver / Guide – Carlos) – Madeira first reached in 1419-20 is one of the two populated Portuguese island of the 7 islands in the archipelago, the other being Porto Santo (Pop 5,000, 50 Square Kilometers (19.3 Sq Miles), and 9 Kilometer [5.5 mile] sandy beach) discovered by João Gonçalves Zarco in 1418 (now 600th anniversary). The others are the 3 “Deserted Islands” (Deserta Grande, Bugio, Ilhéu Chão) which require special permits to access as they are part of the biosphere reserve, and the 2 ”wild” islands (Selvgem Grade and Selvagem Peqena with its Ilhéu de Fora) . It was during a storm that the Portuguese navigators thinking they were in Africa, happened to reach the uninhabited island of Porto Santo which only had vestiges of shipwrecks and thus called it Saintly Port as they were safe. The also uninhabited island of Madeira was so called because of all the wood from shipwrecks (Madeira = wood) and Funchal named because of the abundance of Fennel in the area. It has basically always been under Portuguese rule other than a brief period under Spain from 1580 to 1640. Other interesting facts – Minimum Salary €600 and a University professor €1,200 a month; Madeira wine (grown above 200 Meters above sea level), lace and banana (20,000 ton exported per year, grown below 200 meters above sea level so as to achieve the EU mandated 10 inch long bananas) are second only economic drivers to Tourism and adjunct services. There are activities through the year that brings tourism – Carnaval, Easter, May flower Festival, June – a 4 week festival of fireworks and the winning company earns the contract to do the spectacular New Years Eve display), September the wine festival and the big build up to the year end extravaganza. Fishing is also big with a unique “Pescado Espada Prieto” (black scabbard or sword fish) are brought up from a sea depth of up to 2,500 meters and are the delicacy. Other fish caught in the nets either explode when brought to the surface due to pressure differential and form “chum” attracting other fish (agata) that is hung up to dry like bacalao, but mainly used for their liver which is a key ingredient in certain cosmetics. All locals have free education through High School with some government assistance in the private University and free basic healthcare for all, but most that can afford it also use private pay doctors.

Funchal is the Capital of the Portuguese Island of Madeira and has an abundance of natural delights, picturesque mountains and deep valleys.

Being New Years Eve the place was teeming with people as apart from the 120K local inhabitants, all 30,000 beds of the hotels in the city were full and there were several cruise ships in port that added an additional 28,000 thus inflating the population by 50% for the day / night!!!

Alex, Courtney and Peter took off to Funchal Marina to board their RIB (Rubber Inflatable Boat) tour with a Marine Biologist to explore the waters filled with twenty species of cetaceans (whales, dolphins, porpoises). They had an amazing time as there was a pod of some 100 dolphins in a secluded bay and the ocean / wave height was not too bad, so with an ideal sunny day, they had dolphins jumping around all around them and so an amazing experience. They headed out about 9:30 and were back at the ship about 1:00pm.

However, Roger and Robin took the Madeira Private Car tour as we were not keen on the movement in the small rubber boat. Our Driver / Guide, Carlos met us at 9AM and we stared with a drive around the very clean city of Funchal. The first place we saw was the museum of Ronaldo (the brilliant footballer) who is from Madeira and where he displays all his trophies / accolades etc. We drove past the Palacio de San Lorenzo, which is the seat of the Portuguese Government representative, as Madeira is an autonomous region that is a dependency of Portugal, but has it’s own government.

The first stop was in the Praça do Municipio (municipal Square) with Xmas decorations and a central fountain to see the 1729 to early 1720 Jesuit Church, known both as the “School Church” (as the Jesuit school was next door prior it being incorporated into the University) and as the Church of Saint John The Evangelist. This is a place not to be missed. A “MUST” on anyone visiting Funchal. The ‘over the top’ opulent decor of carved wood with gold leaf and tiles, throughout make it one of the most impressive churches I have seen. The roof, the side altars and main altar exuded days when the Church and Portugal were at it’s apogee. The 1646 rearados behind the main altar has St. John the Evangelist at its center with the 4 major saints of the order – Saints Ignatius of Loyola, Francis Xavier, Francis of Borja and Louis Gonzaga. It was modified in 1660 to hold the blessed sacrament.

Next we were dropped at the top of the Spectacular 80,000 Square Meter (861,112 Square Foot 20 Acre) Botanical Gardens laid out by Rui Manuel da Silva Viera filled with some 1,500 species, laid out on the mountain, offering gorgeous views of the city and harbour. Lush vegetation and tended to beautifully, we enjoyed our walk down the mountain along the paths to the bottom where our driver met us and took us to our next stop Pico dos Barceló’s at 450 Meters above sea level, offering more gorgeous vistas of the town and sea. Venturing out of Funchal, we first stopped at the Mirador Pico da Torre overlooking the charming harbour and fishing village of Câmara de Lobos, made famous by Winston Churchill who spent a lot of time here in 1950 painting the idyllic village. We then were able to wander around the village and stopped at a local bar (there were lots of local fishermen at the 8 bars on the street already enjoying New Year libations) and partook of the local Ponche which in that village was made with Passion Fruit, lime, sugar and local “firewater” – delicious! Our final stop was at the Cabo Girão promontory, which at 580 Meters direct downward drop is the tallest in Europe and second tallest (after Grand Canyon) in the world. A glass floor and open metal grating provide the only support for those willing to stand, between you and the drop some 1,900 feet below where there was a farm at sea level. It is located in a very attractive time share / holiday rental group of homes and apartments managed by PPB – The Holiday Property Bond (www.hpb.co.uk). An interesting prospect for those wanting to spend more time on the island. On our way back to the ship we passed many 5 star resorts with the pink colored Ritz being traditionally the place where visiting dignitaries stay.

After regrouping at the ship we took the shuttle bus into the town and made our way along the streets away from the throngs of tourists to an excellent restaurant to enjoy Ponche de Limão (much like a Brazilian Caipirinha, but with local “firewater” and espetada which is local barbecued meat or game on skewers (traditionally made of laurel so as to infuse meat with laurel seasoning), now metal skewers and delicious bolo de cacao or miel (coconut or honey baked flat bread with garlic butter) and local Coral beer. We continued our wander through the Xmas villages, streets, amphitheater and down to the water where an early full moon arose while still sunny over a working / sailing replica of an old Portuguese Sail Ship. We arrived at the 1485-1514 Sé or Gothic carved wood roofed Cathedral just before the full, 5PM mass and enjoyed the choir. Back on the ship we dressed formally for the New Year’s Eve festivities – Pub quiz (24 of 30 correct answers), New Year’s Ball, Balloon drop, dancing in various locations to different music genres, Gala Buffet and the spectacular fireworks display at midnight which was on three ships in the harbour on one side of our ship and throughout the mountainous city on the other side of the ship. We felt like we were in the middle of exploding colorful bursts all around us, which is unlikely to fade in our memory. All were given champagne to ring in the New Year. As the display ended there was a “fog” that appeared all around due to the smoke from the fireworks. Unfortunately we were able to see, as the smoke dissipated, a home or structure half way up the mountain that was on fire. Large flames came from the structure, we felt very sorry for the poor owners who’s year did not start well! Eventually about 1 AM we called it a night and thankful that the 1st January was a day at sea to “catch our breath”!